by Chinazam Ikechi-Uko.
In the late 2010s, Sustainability and sustainable brands became fashion’s favourite buzzword. This refers to the design, production, and consumption of clothing and accessories in an ethical way that minimises negative environmental, social, and economic impacts. It upheld a holistic approach that considers the entire lifecycle of a garment, from raw material sourcing to disposal.
However, by the 2020s, it was discovered that sometimes these ‘ethics’ were a facade, and in some cases, there was a human cost involved. In 2024, Business of Fashion did an exposé of the renowned Quiet Luxury brand, Loro Piana, and how its $9,000 Sweaters rely on unpaid services by Peruvian farmers.
Since then, there have been a few other exploitation cases in the luxury market. However, regulations are constantly being set to combat the human and environmental abuse practices found in the fashion industry. One of these includes the ban on plastics, and Lagos, Nigeria, joined the match as it officially banned single-use plastics starting from January 2025.
In celebration of the ban, the Nigerian brand, Banke Kuku, debuted its Oceans collection. The collection highlighted the damage the plastic pollution has done to our beachfronts and how it troubles our aquatic fauna species.
Similarly, this is one of the reasons we celebrate Earth Day (April 22nd). Earth Day serves as a vital reminder of how much the planet does for us and how certain practices should be frowned upon. As Nigeria takes pivotal steps to eradicate these practices, here are a few sustainable Nigerian brands that prove that fashion can be ethical and beautiful.
Eki kéré:
Eki Kere is a contemporary Nigerian fashion brand that adapts traditional African craftsmanship to modern style trends. Founded by Abasiekeme Ukanireh in 2020, the brand has gained popularity for its redefining of stereotypical designs with fabrics like batik fabric and raffia.
Eki Kere led the trend of raffia as a wearable garment before the Jacquemus Spring-Summer 2023 ‘Le Raphia’ collection. The brand emphasises reducing waste and minimising its carbon footprint through innovative recycling and the use of natural, locally sourced materials. Ukanireh draws inspiration from her childhood and Nigerian culture, including the masquerade traditions of Ikot Ekpene.
Ajanéé:
Ajanéé was heralded as one of the show stealers of the 2024 Lagos Fashion Week with its intriguing take on denim. Ajanéé centres around individuality and conscious creation, emphasising that clothing is a means of self-expression. Ajanéé, intentionally, focuses on locally sourcing and producing each step on its garment creation.
Founded by Luqman Ajani in 2020, a self-taught designer who developed a passion for craft from a young age. Ajani views fashion as a space for emotional intelligence and a response to societal perceptions of difference. Ajanéé utilises upcycled materials, deadstock fabrics, and second-hand clothing as primary resources to create new garments, minimising waste and breathing new life into discarded materials. They often operate on a made-to-order system to further reduce waste.
Oya Abeo:
Oya Abeo, established in 2020, emerged as one of the finalists for the 2024 Lagos Fashion Week Green Access Programme— a programme platforming young brands contributing to the rise of slow and sustainable fashion. The prize of being a finalist includes a debut spot on the Lagos Fashion Week runway and calendar, which introduces the designs to buyers and industry insiders. Oya Abeo, a vibrant Nigerian fashion label, draws its unique identity from the Yoruba Oriki, or praise name, of its founder, Samiat Salami.
Salami was inspired by the rich colours and visual tapestry of her home. The brand champions Nigerian-made textiles and handcrafted designs, particularly through their patient, handmade batik process. With a vision to build a lasting West African textile legacy, Oya Abeo embraces transparency in its creative journey, navigating the inherent variations of artisanal production while striving to push design boundaries. Their cheerful prints and comfortable silhouettes, showcased at Lagos Fashion Week and recognised for sustainable practices, aim to evoke a joyful spirit and celebrate the wearer’s inner child through the beauty of African batik.
Garbe:
Garbe
In 2023, Bella Adeleke shocked the fashion world as she debuted her Yoruba fashion film to promote her latest collection for Garbe. Fashion films are not as popular in Nigeria as they are in the West, much less one in Yoruba.
This propelled Garbe into new territories of interest. However, this was a reintroduction. The brand initially started as a streetwear label with an emphasis on Nigerian history. However, it has since transitioned into creating more distinct ready-to-wear pieces inspired by Lagos and its nightlife. Garbe prioritizes reusing waste materials and investing in local design processes to create consciously made garments. It operates as a slow fashion label, emphasizing quality over quantity.
Dust Of The Earth:
Dust Of The Earth at Lagos Fashion Week
Founded by Temetan Omolabake, Dust Of The Earth has been featured in several publications, including Vogue Italia. Dust of the Earth is a notable Nigerian fashion brand that has consistently graced the runways of Lagos Fashion Week, showcasing vibrant and eye-catching collections. Their presentations, including those in 2023 as a Green Access designer and in 2024 featuring striking gradient effects and colorful dresses, highlight a creative approach to design.
Dust Of The Earth has an extremely rare approach to fashion as it uses a self-designed weaving technique. The brand gained popularity for its use of upcycling shoelaces and turning them into garments such as dresses, jackets and skirts.
DIMEJIILORI:
DIMEJI ILORI Lagos Fashion Week 2024
Another alumnus of the Lagos Fashion Week’s Green Access Programme is DIMEJI ILORI. The eponymous label was created by Dimeji Ilori in 2017. According to Ilori, he was inspired to start the brand after noticing the amount of discarded clothing in thrift shops and flea markets and seeing the potential to transform these forgotten treasures into unique and beautiful garments.
DIMEJI ILORI is an Afrocentric fashion brand dedicated to refashioning African consciousness through wearable clothing and accessories. The brand emphasizes sustainability by creatively repurposing discarded fabrics into well-crafted garments.
This approach addresses the environmental concerns associated with fashion waste.
DIMEJI ILORI’s designs often blend African and Western aesthetics, incorporating elements like traditional embroidery and fabric manipulation techniques. His fusion reflects a current African identity while honoring cultural heritage. The brand was featured in Lagos Fashion Week and recognized for its commitment to sustainable and conscious fashion.
