by Chinazam Ikechi-Uko
The most exciting night in fashion falls on the first Monday in May. This event, called the Met Gala, is often referred to as the Fashion Olympics, as designers can design for sport and not for function. So each year, enthusiasts sit with their phones as they hope to see the looks, the glamour, and most importantly, the misses.
There are no rules or constraints for designing at the Met Gala; however, there is always a theme. Despite always having a theme, it was not until the 2000s that people started devotedly following it, with some citing Rihanna’s 2015 yellow Guo Pei robe as the catalyst and others hinting that Amber Valletta’s 2004 Jean Paul Gaultier look was the first step.
It is typical to see a few celebrities dressing off-theme, as some often play it safe. But this year’s theme was an homage to the stylish black men who paved the way and influenced the industry. It marked the first menswear Met Gala theme since 2003… and people showed up in dresses. The Met Museum also honoured an array of black and African designers for the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition. The bright side is that the 2025 Met Gala broke the record for highest funds raised with a whopping total of $31 million. But the other sides…
MEET THE MET GALA THEME:
This year’s theme was “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, aligning with the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s spring exhibition of the same name. The dress code for the event was “Tailored For You”, and the audience expected fine tailoring, strong silhouettes, and sartorial elegance.
The exhibition and the Met Gala theme are inspired by Monica L. Miller’s book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” It explores how enslaved and free Black men in the diaspora used clothing and style as a form of defiance, self-definition, and a way to challenge societal hierarchies.
This theme celebrates the history and influence of Black dandyism in fashion over the past three centuries. Black dandyism is a cultural phenomenon rooted in self-expression, resistance, and the assertion of identity and dignity in the face of systemic racism and oppression.
The Congolese subculture, Le SAPE (Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes), boasts one of the largest modern-day dandies. In their brightly coloured, well-tailored suits, the Congo Sapes have caught the attention of the BBC and The Guardian.
Excluding the SAPE, publications often cited notable dandies like André Leon Talley and Iké Udé as references for the theme. Ahead of the Met Gala, the press teased photos showcasing looks from Torlowei (Nigeria), Agbobly (Togo), 3.Paradis (Cameroon), Oswald Boateng (Ghana), Wales Bonner (Jamaica), Theophilio (Jamaica), and Louis Vuitton by Pharrell Williams.
HOW TO LOSE THE THEME:
Despite these clear indications of what a well-tailored dandy should wear, the internet summarised that a handful of people would dress as caricatures of a black man, with people taking bets on who would wear a durag and why it would be a Kardashian.
Sure as expected, a celebrity did show up in a durag, but it was not who was expected; it was top model Amelia Gray. Historically, models have been notorious for skipping the theme, and the 2025 Met Gala marked the continuation of this tradition. However, this time, supermodel Gigi Hadid joined the lost in transition troupe.
Hadid, wearing custom Miu Miu styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, paid homage to designer Zelda Wynn Valdes, the first Black designer to open her boutique on Broadway in New York. She notably dressed Josephine Baker, the first African American woman to star in a motion picture.
Unfortunately for Hadid, the internet would have to tell her that black dandyism does not mean black history, and dressing up as a black woman has nothing to do with the theme. However, in Hadid’s defence, the designer, Zelda Wynn Valdes, used tailoring seen in dandyism for women’s clothing.
Singer, FKA Twigs, followed the Gigi Hadid route. As she looked stunning in a Josephine Baker-inspired flapper dress, she completely dodged the theme. Baker is an integral part of black history, but, and I hate to say this, can men have something?
The Josephine Baker reference did not end with FKA Twigs, Grammy-winning rapper, Megan Thee Stallion pulled up in a tribute look with the hairstyle to match. The Met Gala themes often cite books as their source material, yet the attendees were oblivious that dandies are a historical association of the term with masculinity as a form of resistance against oppression and marginalisation. In a 2015 article, The Cut wrote an ode to the rare creature, a female dandy.
The piece notes, “the female dandy is its own archetype, known as the quaintrelle.” While Josephine Baker was a groundbreaking style icon who defied conventions, she is not traditionally classified as a dandy due to the connection of the term with masculinity and the performative, feminine context of her iconic looks.
The caricatured durag and the Josephine Bakers were under the I should have read the text and not just the notes. But they were not the worst thing, because a durag is no longer bad once you see Rosa Parks’ face on a celebrity’s crotch.
In a Louis Vuitton by Pharrell look, the Thai rapper and White Lotus star, LISA, shocked the world with her Met Gala debut. In a rockstar-approved look, LISA donned lace jackets and panties, she skipped pants as she only wore tights under her pants. It was an intriguing take on dandyism until viewers zoomed in and noticed the herd of faces on her panties. One of the faces spotted was the Civil Rights activist, Rosa Parks.
LISA.
LISA is currently under fire, but a quick reminder that Pharrell designed the look, and this Met is all about the men, so surely, the blame can be shared.
IT WAS NOT ALL BLAND, THE STUNNERS:
Both Vogue and the Met Museum (MoMa) had provided a detailed idea for the theme, and many missed it; it was not everyone ignored the theme.
Teyana Taylor equally put on a durag, however, it completed her narrative. Taylor drew inspiration from the dandies across time and location. In a Ruth E. Carter and Marc Jacobs piece, Teyana wore a breathtaking hue of oxblood and chalk stripe, paired a feathered fedora, red cane, jumbo rosettes, leather gloves, stacked wallet chains, custom Kiki boots, with a train of pleated fabric trailing behind. The look in itself was reminiscent of both Le SAPE (Congo) and the 18th-century dandyism. Taylor gave the look a modern spin as she took off her fedora and revealed a durag underneath.
Although not a fan-favourite, actor Colman Domingo showed up in two on-theme looks. One was a bright blue pleated cape with an intricately embellished gold collar by Valentino, as an homage to the late fashion journalist André Leon Talley, who often wore capes to the Met Gala, and the other was a windowpane plaid jacket, evoking the style of a Zoot Suit.
His stylist, Wayman Bannerman, explained that the look was inspired by African royalty, the richness of Black culture throughout history, and the Zoot Suit Riots as a symbol of standing up for self-expression. Domingo expressed that the blue colour also referenced a formerly enslaved man who desired to wear his finest blue suit.
Blue, often associated with the sky and water, can represent hope, peace, and a desire for those yearning for freedom and a better future. It represented a departure from the drab and uniform clothing associated with slavery.
Another on-theme look was style icon Zendaya, who showed up in a three-piece zoot suit by Louis Vuitton, designed by Pharrell Williams. While the outfit strays from her usual outfits, Zendaya nailed the theme in her impeccably tailored ensemble, featuring flared trousers, a fitted blazer with a subtle brooch detail at the back, a crisp white shirt, a matching tie, and a dramatic wide-brimmed hat.
Some also noted its resemblance to the white suits worn by performers like Grace Jones and Gladys Bentley, as well as Bianca Jagger’s famous white bridal suit, which her stylist, Law Roach, confirmed was a reference. Zendaya could easily fit into the documentaries about the Le SAPE with this look.
Zendaya also ended up twinning with Shogun star, Anna Sawai and Supermodel, Imaan Hammam, who also donned white satorial looks.
Another iconic look of the night, Lauryn Hill made a triumphant debut at the Met Gala with a unique adaptation of the Dandy aesthetic.
The 2025 Met Gala promised a rich celebration of Black dandyism and the essential contributions of black men to the fashion world. However, the execution of this theme fell short, as many attendees strayed from the spirit of the occasion.
Nevertheless, the evening was a success as it raised funds and highlighted talent, reminding us of the importance of honouring the narrative that celebrates the legacy of Black men in fashion.
“Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” will be open to the public at The Met Fifth Avenue from May 10 through October 26, 2025.
