ARISE FASHION WEEK MADE ITS COMEBACK TO LAGOS ALONG WITH NAOMI.

By Chinazam Ikechi-Uko.

“(Arise) will grow more and more, and next year, we’ll be able to bring more international designers. Brands will want to start showcasing here, that’s the goal. That, and contributing to the infrastructure of Africa, to make it the continent of fashion design, architecture, art, and tech – which it should be!” – Naomi Campbell

After a year-long absence, ARISE fashion week returned and this time it was in Lagos. The previous season was hosted in Dubai at Burj Khalifa, popularly known as the world’s tallest building. The reasons why there was no 2022 edition haven’t been made public. Nonetheless, the 20th edition was held at the EKO hotel and suites with an array of international and home designers. Longtime collaborator and supermodel, Naomi Campbell was also in attendance. Naomi has been an open supporter of ARISE fashion week; she made her ARISE runway debut in 2018 and she’s been a staple since then.

However, Naomi developed a passion for the African fashion industry and decided to do more than walk the runway. In 2019, she played a huge role in curating the designers. She featured a few designers on her YouTube channel and spoke out about Vogue’s exclusion of the African fashion industry. Campbell’s commitment to Africa and its people doesn’t end with fashion, though. The supermodel makes frequent visits to support hospices, orphanages, and trusts around the continent. She was equally present on the ARISE runway in 2020 and 2021, so it was exciting to see she still has a passion for the community. Marking her 5th year with ARISE, the supermodel walked the runway for several designers including ARISE 30 under 30 finalist, VICNATE and international menswear designer and recipient of the British fashion council award, Bianca Saunders.

ARISE fashion week came with a fresh approach, it came with a Jazz festival, and it was themed future forward. To celebrate 20 years of fashion shows, this milestone edition was called ARISE fashion week and Jazz festival 2023, the guests were treated to a range of live performances with Jazz legend, Herbie Hancock and the remarkable Grammy-winning artiste, Wizkid closing the event on the final day.

The event kicked off with the Nigerian brand, Pepper Row whose collection was inspired by the colourful cultural heritage of Nigeria. The collection featured a fusion of traditional African fabrics and styles but added a contemporary twist to it. This would turn out to be a trend at the fashion show with designers blending and redesigning native textiles and garments. The gender-neutral brand, Bloke was next. Known for its artsy and eccentric take on luxury fashion, the brand debuted a collection with a theme of self-expression.

In addition to the runway show, French multi-instrumentalist and musician, French Kiwi Juice (FKJ) gave an amazing solo performance. Bianca Saunders, Awa Meité, NiNiE, Nkwo, Lisa Folawiyo, UNI FORM, Vicnate, OLOOH, Kadiju, T.I NATHAN, Tiffany Amber, AJABENG, Lanre Da Silver and a few others also debuted their collections on the runway.

The fashion show featured new faces as well as reoccurring designers. The Italian womenswear brand, Meribe made its debut at the ARISE fashion show. The eponymous label was founded by Nigerian-born Italian living designer, Joy Meribe. The collection is heavily influenced by her dual citizenship, her Nigerian culture and her exposure to Italian heritage and teachings. The bold, vibrant and sophisticated silhouettes garnered attention at the Milan fashion week and made the brand one to watch for, now it debuts in Lagos to a similar reception. Meribe showcased a silky and colourful collection; she was also impressed by the professionalism and organization of the fashion event and hopes to return the next year.

One of the pioneers of the dried raffia infused with casual garments (which was recently spotted on international runways such as Jacquemus), Éki Kéré exhibited its collection with the same dried raffia infusion which has become their signature. While the brand, UNI FORM took a minimalistic approach and used neutral clothes but styled them with intricate moulds of familiar items such as bowls, doughnuts and the bust to the torso of a woman. NKWO stayed true to its sustainable core with its upcycled collection.

There was a trend of earth tones; green was a staple on the catwalk as seen for Bianca Saunders, Bloke, Mariya Sanusi, Pepper Row, Lanre Da Silver and others. OLOOH caught the pink bug and featured a range from the hue on the runway. Formal wear was given a spin with Vicnate, T.I Nathan, NiNiE, FRUCHÉ and UNI FORM. Traditional attires were seen on the runway for Syari Bespoke, Awa Meité, AMEER and Hudayya. Minimalism stuck its oversaturated head and made a few appearances for I.N official’s collection. Bold and vivacious prints were popular on the runway too with Mokodu fall, Tiffany Amber, Ituen Basi, and Ziva. LVMH finalist, Kenneth Ize returned with his signature use of Aso-oke. Kadiju introduced interesting silhouettes.

L-R: Éki Kéré and NKWO.

An old pencil drawing of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza sitting on their horses, by Wilhelm Marstrand. — KENNETH IZE

Another highlight was the front row, filled with celebrities and influencers such as Chiké, Joeboy, Rema, Eku Edewor and Timaya. However, one look stood out: Ayra Starr, she was the belle of the ball. Donning Bianca Saunders and what appeared to be a 3 piece garment, with bleached eyebrows, a headscarf, gleaming fabric, and a robe to match. The look gave off a bohemian feel which appeared to be a nod to the bohemian fad of the Jazz age. At a fashion show which doubled as a Jazz festival, she was right on theme and the execution was stellar.

The fashion show gave both the participants and the attendees a show. Guests were treated to three-course meals. Models, designers, makeup artists and photographers were also taken care of. The backstage was as lively as the event with MAC goody bags. ARISE made good use of their money, the shows provided an ethereal experience for both Jazz and fashion. Overall, the designers presented an excellent presentation; Mokodu fall, OLOOH, Awa Meité, and FRUCHÉ were my favourite looks of the night. Fingers crossed the 21st edition will take place in Lagos.