By Chinazam Ikechi-Uko.
“How do I get tickets to GTCO Fashion Weekend,” was the only statement that flooded my Instagram messages a few days before the second weekend of November. The GTCO Fashion Weekend is an annual fashion phenomenon. It often falls on the second weekend in November. Its marketing strategies are inescapable. However, despite the thousands of flyers and road signs saying attendance is free; people have struggles believing there is no catch…
Every year, thousands of people occupy Water Cooperation Drive, Oniru. This crowd demands observance from the people. They are here for a fashion experience but assuming everyone else’s motives is unwise. Nigerians are often wary of large corporations, and this mistrust is often rooted in personal experiences.
THE FEAR OF THE FREE GIFT:
The mistrust for citizens is grand but that for large corporations is grander. GTCO stands for Guaranty Trust Holding Company Plc. It is a multinational financial services group headquartered in Nigeria.
When it comes to finance companies, One is advised to tread patiently and always read the fine print. Lest the conglomerates get thou in lock and key as the Stupendium sang, “There is no I in team but there is con in economy.”
However, GTCO insists that there are no hidden fees and by every metric, it lives up to that. The itinerary is simple; see the street style, shop on the side, catch a masterclass, and then attend the show.
There is no dress code, no elitism, and no tickets. The CEO of GTCO, Segun Julius Agbaje, explains in the Fashion Weekend’s editorial, “The vision for GTCO Fashion Weekend remains Promoting Enterprise; the community a platform that supports small businesses, the community and brings Africa’s vast creativity to the forefront.”
Hence why it is free, the catch is for your attention to be caught by hundreds of African businesses.
Another factor that makes the free nature unearthing is that this structure is antithetical to other fashion events.
Related: Everything You Missed At Lagos Fashion Week 2024
ANALYSING THE TYPICAL STRUCTURE:
Most successful large-scale fashion events are ticketed or strictly by invitation. In the defence of those shows, they are affiliated with a bank worth ₦9.69 trillion.
The average show’s fees cover factors such as venue, stage, sound systems, and lighting. In a recent documentary by Day and Nites, fashion designer Mai Atafo revealed that it cost a fortune (approximately $100,000) to host his strictly by invitation 2023 show.
Atafo was fortunate to create this spectacle with the help of investors. If he had to wing it, it would have been understandable if he put a fee on it.
Lately, there have been reports that the elusive nature of certain modern shows is a result of homophobia. In an article for CNN, Bolaji Akinwande states that Nigerian fashion labels feel forced to show in private due to the nation’s growing anti-LGBTQ sentiment.
He writes that any brand deemed remotely too gender non-conforming faces an unspoken discrimination. So these brands opt for underground shows where a select and trustworthy few can objectively view and judge the collection.
This is not the only discrimination allegation that our fashion industry has faced. The other saw GTCO at the centre of the debacle.
DOES EVERYONE MEAN EVERYBODY SIZE?
The event has a theme each year, but it is self-imposed and summarises what angle of fashion the organisers want to highlight.
This year’s theme was Fashion Moves Forward. In the editorial, Agbaje notes, “At GTCO, we believe that innovation and inclusivity go hand in hand, and by making space for more voices, we are driving an industry that reflects diversity and richness of African talent.”
The 2024 theme and the ethos of the annual seven-year-old event imply similar messages; fashion should be accessible to all. Ironically, GTCO was put on blast a month ago for its runways not having plus-size models.
In September, plus-size model, Alexandra Obochi called out GTCO’s model casting methods for its lack of inclusivity. Standing at 5’10, Obochi applied for the continent-wide castings that required models to be at least 5’9. In a video with over 900,000 views, Obochi stated, “I have never seen a plus-size model on the GTCO runway.”
Alexandra Obochi GTCO application
Her application was not accepted and in an interview with Native magazine, she explained that neither her application to walk nor her application for her brand to have a runway slot was responded to.
This radio silence spoke loud enough to Obochi. However, GTCO took to its editorial to answer the discussions surrounding inclusivity. In a piece titled, Fashion is for everyone, the finance company tells you the future of fashion is inclusive. It features photos of models of colours, models with vitiligo, and a few other archetypes of models that were spotted on the GTCO runway.
The first sentence of the article reads, “Fashion’s shift towards inclusivity is reshaping how we view style, with designers and brands embracing body positivity and creating clothing that celebrates all shapes and sizes.”
In a WhatsApp discussion with Obochi, she expressed surprise and found the editorial unbelievable, “I think it is hilarious. So they know that this is possible and these are things that are needed. I can’t believe they dare to write an article like this.”
Her words highlight an interesting dichotomy in GTCO’s belief system. GTCO has revolutionised fashion in Nigeria. It is accessible and inclusive, everyone is invited. The masterclass is free, attendance is free, the fashion show is free, and it offers free vendor slots.
WHAT DOES GTCO HAVE TO SAY?
In a WhatsApp discussion with one of the editorial leads, Lisa*, when asked about the impact of the lack of visible plus-size representation at previous GTCO Fashion Weekends. She said, “The designers often make sample sizes, they come from all over the continent and based on that we cast sample sizes. So we focused on making the shows diverse in terms of nationality.”
When asked about how this impacts the perception of the brand’s commitment to inclusivity. She admits that this year was different. She said, “There was definitely a range of models on the runway.”
THE FUTURE OF GTCO FASHION:
GTCO was right about the future of fashion moving forward as organisations made obvious attempts at diversifying their runway this year. The GTCO Fashion Weekend represents a unique approach to fashion that emphasizes accessibility, community support, and the celebration of diverse talent. While it aims to promote inclusivity and showcase a myriad of African businesses, it cannot escape scrutiny concerning its practices, particularly regarding representation on the runway.
The discourse around model casting highlights the complexities and challenges within the fashion industry, especially in a culturally diverse landscape like Nigeria. As the event continues to evolve, it must reconcile its aspirations with tangible actions that reflect its commitment to inclusivity. Its 2024 show marks the first step in the redemption of its runway approach to fashion.
They have earned the public’s trust by demonstrating that fashion can be free and unrestrictive. However, as everyone turns their attention to the runways, we must ask: is this commitment to inclusivity here to stay, or is it merely a passing trend? How will they make it more inclusive if designers only produce sample sizes? Will their next show reflect their own ideals and highlight a future in fashion that is inclusive, diverse, and ready to celebrate everyone?