By Chinazam Ikechi-Uko.
The who’s who of global fashion is often a fascinating tale featuring scary past stories, audacious speakers, and faces that make gods envious and fighters. Fashion is one of the few industries that welcomes everyone. So it is as common to see a nepo baby walking a runway as it is to see a refugee. One does it for passion and validation, while the other needs to survive. Regardless of their motivations, once they prove to be excellent players on the fashion court, the industry blows its whistle on recognition. The umpire? The Business Of Fashion.
WHAT IS THE BUSINESS OF FASHION?
Although colloquially known as BoF, The Business of Fashion is a leading online publication that covers the global fashion industry. Since 2007, BoF has provided news, analysis, and insights on everything from design and manufacturing to retail and marketing. BoF’s goal is to provide a comprehensive and insightful view of the fashion industry, making it an essential resource for anyone interested in fashion, business, and culture.
Each year, the publication curates a list of the most influential people in the fashion industry. The list includes individuals from various areas of the fashion industry, including designers, executives, retailers, entrepreneurs, creative class, media, models & muses, and catalysts. The individuals on the list are selected based on their impact on the fashion industry, creativity, and ability to shape trends. Over the years, The BoF 500 List has become a valuable resource for anyone interested in the fashion industry, providing insight into the key players and trends shaping the industry.
The Business Of Fashion made it to several national publications because no one could take their eyes off how stunning Ayra Starr looked. However, Starr was at the gala as an honoured guest who wanted to show love and support to her fellow Africans in the industry. In 2023, Starr scored her first Vogue cover [Teen Vogue], and this year, she is dressed to the nines to watch the man who shot that Vogue cover be celebrated.
As Wizkid serenaded the guests, BoF unveiled the list with 12 Africans selected for the 2024 edition. The alumni list includes Afrobeats sensation Burnaboy and streetwear giant Yinka Ash of Ash Luxe. Meet the 12 chosen by the Business of Fashion 500:
THE LIST:
Stephen Tayo:
Source: Faces Magazine.
The Nigerian photographer falls under the BoF category– Creative Class. He is described as an artist whose work imbues the global street style format with a distinctly West African spirit. Stephen Tayo is a photographer who captures intimate portraits of individuals in Nigeria and beyond. His work focuses on the symbolism of fashion and how it relates to identity, family, and community. His sitters are usually active participants in the picture-taking process, often adopting formal poses that were popular in the 1950s and 1960s. He has participated in artist residencies and has been featured in numerous publications, including Vogue, New York Times, and Dazed. His work has also been exhibited in galleries around the world.
Tyla:
Tyla by Gregory Harris for Elle Magazine.
The South African singer, Tyla, is unapologetic about her love of her hometown. “They never seen a pretty girl from Jo’Burg / See me now and that is what they prefer,” she sang on her hit song, Jump. The fashion industry agrees with this statement, as Tyla got her big break in mainstream fashion before she did in music. The Amapiano hitmaker, known for her distinctive deconstructed style, was categorised as a Muse.
Iretidayo Zaccheus:
The Nigerian whose name has become synonymous with streetwear. Iretidayo Zaccheaus is the founder and CEO of Street Souk, the largest streetwear convention in Africa. She has helped connect local and international brands and expanded the event to other cities. Zaccheaus has a business degree and a master’s in marketing, which has enabled her to grow Street Souk. The event has grown significantly since its founding in 2018, and Zaccheaus has collaborated with many brands and musicians, including the late Virgil Abloh and Drake.
Ayo Edebiri:
Ayo Edebiri for Today Show by @myeshaevongardner
2024 has seen the Bajan-Nigerian comedian and actress thrust into the spotlight, with roles dominating the big and small screens. When she is not on the screen, she is turning heads on the red carpet and featuring in fashion magazines. Ayo Edebiri is an actor and comedian known for her role in the TV series “The Bear.” She has won a Golden Globe, Critics Choice Award, and Emmy for her performance. Edebiri grew up in Boston and studied dramatic writing at Boston Latin School. She honed her comedic talents in New York City and has also worked as a writer and actress on other shows. She is classified as a Muse on the list.
Wandia Gichuru:
Across East Africa, there is a budding fashion industry. The fast-growing fashion chain is run by the Kenyan businesswoman Wandia Gichuru. On the entrepreneur’s category of the list, Gichuru launched VIVO in 2011 and has since expanded the company to include other brands and an e-commerce platform. Gichuru’s company has stores in several East African countries and has recently opened a store in the United States. She previously worked as an international development adviser.
Lyas:
Lyas, the Algerian-French fashion writer and commentator, has become a fan and industry favourite. With over 70,000 followers on Instagram, Lyas has a way of holding the masses’ attention every fashion cycle. He has been recognized by industry leaders and featured in several publications. Lyas has recently ventured into the digital couture space with Fenzy, a fashion gaming app. He falls under the media segment.
Laduma Ngxokolo:
South Africa has seen a boom in its fashion recognition this decade, with several names appearing on the annual BoF list. This year was for Laduma Ngxokolo of MaXhosa Africa, a luxury knitwear label. Ngxokolo’s designs have placed South African fashion on the global stage with regular showcases at the Paris Fashion Week. It has provided a playbook for other luxury brands in Africa. MaXhosa Africa has grown significantly since its launch in 2010, and Ngxokolo has been recognized for his innovative designs.
Aya Nakamura:
The Malian-French singing muse, Aya Nakamura, is known for blending Afrobeats, R&B, and pop. She has become a defining voice in French music and made inroads in the fashion industry. She developed a unique musical style that combines her African heritage with contemporary sounds. Her breakout single “Djadja” in 2018 marked the beginning of her rise to fame. Nakamura has released multiple successful albums and has been recognized for her impact on fashion and pop culture. She was the first Black woman to grace the cover of Vogue France in 2021 and was named a global brand ambassador for Lancôme in 2023.
Ammy Drammeh:
Source: Business Of Fashion.
For the creative class, Ammy Drammeh is a Gambian-Spanish makeup artist and global makeup creative partner at Chanel. She is a member of Chanel’s Cometes Collective, which taps emerging talents shaping the future of beauty. Drammeh is known for her playful and bold approach to makeup and has worked with many leading fashion houses and publications. She was appointed to Chanel’s Cometes Collective in 2022 and has continued to build her sphere of influence by working on projects for brands such as Burberry and Alexander McQueen. Drammeh’s work is helping to popularise a broader cultural narrative that celebrates diversity and individuality in beauty.
Lukhanyo Mdingi:
Lukhanyo Mdingi is the brains behind the eponymous Cape Town-based [South Africa] label of the same name. Mdingi launched his label in 2015 and has since become known for his design ethos, rich colour palettes, and use of traditional African crafts. He has been recognized for his work with awards such as the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld and Andam prizes. Mdingi has presented at both New York and Paris Fashion Week and has exhibited in prestigious museums. He is a partner of the Ethical Fashion Initiative and a board member of the advisory committee for the Design Academy of Fashion (DAF) in Cape Town.
Recho Omondi:
Recho Omondi is the host and creator of the fashion podcast “The Cutting Room Floor.” Omondi started her career in retail and then worked as a pattern-maker. In 2013, she founded her fashion label, OMONDI. She launched “The Cutting Room Floor” to provide a platform for open and honest dialogue about fashion. The podcast has featured conversations with voices from across the fashion industry, including brand executives, product developers, and stylists. Omondi’s ability to dive head-first into controversial topics has made her an influential voice in fashion media.
Maryse Mbonyumutwa:
Source: Africa News Agency.
Maryse Mbonyumutwa is the founder and CEO of Pink Mango and Asantii. The Rwandan entrepreneur has honed her expertise in supply chains and international trade across Europe, China, and Southeast Asia. In 2017, she shifted her focus to Rwanda and set up Pink Mango Rwanda [A garment manufacturing company]. She founded Asantii, a contemporary pan-African brand celebrating the continent’s heritage, craftsmanship, and sustainability perspectives. Mbonyumutwa created Pink Ubuntu, a corporate social responsibility and sustainability label guiding her business practices, focused on helping Africa’s textile and garment industries attain some of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.