By Chinazam Ikechi-Uko.
The latter days of February were filled with excitement in the entertainment industry. It marked the days leading up to the Oscars, Fashion Week, and the independent albums from the members of Blackpink– the K-pop group named the biggest girl group in the world. Each of these three occasions saw African stars celebrated in the spotlight.
Vogue covered Tems every move at the annual Vanity Fair’s Oscars after-party; Ayra Starr debuted her runway walk as she walked for Di Pesta at London Fashion Week; Burna Boy closed the Off White show at Paris Fashion Week, and both Lisa and Jennie of Blackpink made references to the Nigerian-owned brand, Mowalola.
On her debut album, Lisa, member of the Blackpink, starts the tenth track, BAGRRRL, with the lyrics, “I just spilled my drink all on his Mowalola.” Similarly, her sister act from Blackpink– JENNIE, equally rapped on her track, ExtraL, “I sweat hard, Wet t-shirt.”
The phrase wet t-shirt might play a double entendre, JENNIE refers to sweating so much it soaks her t-shirt, but the verse finds JENNIE bragging about her wealth, with the forehand lyrics read, Money on stupid. So the phrase could also be interpreted that she works so hard and wears a Mowalola Wet t-shirt. A t-shirt made popular by Kanye West, Tyla, and Deto Black.
The reference to Mowalola is not as far-fetched as it seems. The music industry is notorious for name-dropping fashion brands that are relevant to the current zeitgeist. Supermodel Karlie Kloss once likened the global success of womenswear designer Alexander Wang to his constant name-drop in the hip-hop genre.
K-pop is no different; Lisa and JENNIE are simply mentioning a brand that is beloved in East Asia. Mowalola’s success in East Asia countries is evident in the countless appearances of K-pop stars such as members of NJZ and Ella of Meovv.
This success equally extends to the West as Oscar award nominee Timothée Chalamet wore an array of Mowalola pieces, during the press tour for The Complete Unknown.
This acknowledgement of a Nigerian talent in fashion extends beyond Mowalola. Artistes, actors, and tastemakers alike. No event cemented their status like the 2025 Autumn-Winter international fashion season.
UNDERSTANDING FASHION WEEK:
Fashion week is a familiar statement that is reiterated all year long, however, fashion week comes but twice a year… in each fashion capital city on different dates.
Fashion Week is a series of events held in major cities around the world, showcasing the latest collections from designers and brands. New York Fashion Week (NYFW) typically takes place in February and September.
Following NYFW, London Fashion Week (LFW) is usually held in February and September as well. Known for its innovative designs, LFW often highlights a more avant-garde aesthetic. Milan Fashion Week (MFW), begins at the end of London Fashion Week, is renowned for its luxury and high-end fashion, making it a pivotal event where Italian designers, like Versace, Gucci, and Giorgio Armani, present their latest collections.
Paris Fashion Week (PFW) is one of the most prestigious events on the fashion calendar, typically scheduled for February/March and September/October. It features top luxury brands and is known for its elite attendees and extravagant presentations.
Alongside PFW is Paris Haute Couture Week, which focuses on high and experimental fashion, generally held in January and July, where designers showcase one-of-a-kind pieces that attract significant media attention.
Additionally, Men’s Fashion Week takes place in various cities, including London, Milan, and Paris, usually occurring in January and June. These events are dedicated to showcasing the latest trends specifically for men’s fashion.
For 2025, the approximate schedule for these events is as follows: NYFW is from February 6-13 and September 5-12; LFW runs from February 15-19 and September 13-17; MFW is set for February 20-26 and September 18-24; PFW takes place from February 27 to March 6 and September 25 to October 3. Paris Haute Couture Week is scheduled for January 22-25 and July 1-4, while Men’s Fashion Week is planned for January 8-15 in Paris, with June dates varying.
At each of these events, African stars revealed looks and hairstyles that even Vogue could not ignore– a striking difference from the latter years of the 2010s.
THE HISTORY OF THE AFRICAN TREATMENT:
It was typical for Africans to get less press attention, and African brands were rarely recognized on the fashion week schedule. South African brand MaxHosa made the news as the only African brand on the 2024 AW PFW schedule. It was not the only African brand slated to have an event, as the Nigerian brand Lagos Space Programme was; nevertheless, MaxHosa was only recognized.
Despite the challenges, numerous African designers have earned prestigious accolades, including Woolmark wins (Lagos Space Programme) and recognition in the LVMH Young Designer competition. This emerging visibility signals a shift in the global fashion narrative, highlighting the contributions of African talent and promising a bright future for the continent’s influence in the industry.
Several African brands have internationally renowned trophies under their belt: Woolmark wins (Lagos Space Programme), LVMH young designer finalists and a win (Thebe Magugu), and most recently a Zalando visionary win (IAMISIGO).
While these are phenomenal leaps, the industry’s approach to African fashion was rather tokenistic. Only a handful of designers are in the global consciousness, and barely any African star is in sight.
The 2020s marked a significant shift in the international perception of; however, 2025 saw a rise in African stars on and off the runway.
CHRONICLING THE FASHION WEEKS:
The first breakout star of the fashion season was Afrobeats superstar Omah Lay. Debuting silk-pressed hair, the Afro-depression singer attended several shows and had an experimental look for each event. He was spotted at the KidSuper show, and the Kenzo and the Amiri shows.
Another industry and fan favourite attendee was singer Tems. Fresh off her Grammy win, she sat in the front row at DIOR, Louis Vuitton, Coperni, and Jacquemus shows. She was also a Vogue darling, as the publication documented the behind-the-scenes footage of her Jacquemus appearance.
It boy, Rema, had his fair share of fashion week appearances at Louis Vuitton and Kenzo. He wrapped up the season with a cover story for Dazed magazine.
Other stars at the events included; Shallipopi and BNXN at the Feng Chen Wang show. Davido attended the Amiri, 032c, Kenzo, and KidSuper show. He also performed at the KidSuper after party. Victony attended the Bluemarble and Kamad show. Asake sat at the Off-White, Casablanca, and Marine Serre shows. Temi Otedola, Wizkid, Mr. Eazi, Joe Boy, and Skepta were also spotted at several shows.
THE RUNWAY DARLINGS:
While many stars kept their talents on the red carpets, a couple took to the runways. The Paris Fashion Week season ended with Burnaboy closing the Off-White show.
Ayra Starr on the other hand, shut down London as she walked for the Di Petsa show.
With Fashion Weeks finally highlighting African designers and their unique contributions to style, the future looks promising for the continent’s creative industry. This newfound visibility paves the way for even greater recognition and success, ultimately establishing African fashion as a vital and influential part of the global fashion landscape.
